Risotto, Sagre & Spring Feasting Just Outside Milan
A newsletter about the culture of eating and drinking better in Northern Italy.
Anyone who knows me knows: Erba Brusca is my forever favorite restaurant in Milan.
They’re what you might call the OG—one of the first to bring the neo-trattoria spirit to life in Milan. (Curious about that term? Check out Laura Lazzaroni’s book, or her new festival Hypertrattoria, if you want to dive deeper.)
From an American restaurant perspective—having lived in both SF and NY—Erba Brusca is like Chez Panisse (hello, hyper-local sourcing!) meets Roberta’s (a little out of the way, but feels like home the moment you arrive).
Chef Alice Delcourt will happily talk your ear off about her producers while cooking with her incredible team through the pass-through window on the way to the back garden—and you’ll surely enjoy the chat. She’s half British, half French, raised in Chicago, and somehow all of those influences come through—effortlessly—in her food and presence. She runs Erba Brusca with her partner Danilo, who’s just as passionate about agriculture, wine, and salumi (aka all the best things).
While it’s a bit off the beaten path, that’s part of the charm—and absolutely worth the short trip. Go for the risotto, or time your visit for one of the unforgettable dinners in the orto garden.
Danilo in the sprawling vegetable orto at Erba Brusca, showing the ropes to kids from Potrero Project Play summer camp we organized last year. We’ll be making risotto with Alice on a special visit to Erba Brusca in October!
Join Me in Milan & Piemonte This Fall
October 16–24, 2025
I’m thrilled to be hosting a small group trip to Milan and Piemonte this fall—and there are just a few spots left!
This experience is co-led by Noa Emas, the brilliant wine director at Seattle’s beloved Spinasse—a Piemontese institution for nearly two decades. Noa’s deep (okay, let’s be honest—obsessive) knowledge of Piemonte’s food and wine is not only impressive, it’s contagious in the best way.
Together, we’ll get to know:
Nebbiolo, from the vineyard to the glass (we’ll be visiting 9 wineries in total!)
Winery dogs (yes, they're part of the charm)
The town of Bra, home of the Slow Food movement
And plenty of salumi, formaggi, and other regional treasures
We’ll begin in Milan—a city of art, design, negroni sbagliati, and some of the best risotto you’ll ever eat—before heading deep into the heart of Piedmont to meet the makers, taste exceptional wines at the source, and slow down.
There will be time for long walks, slow meals, and real rest.
8 guests. 2 guides. Only 2 spots left. For the full itinerary and details, write to: risottoandsteel@gmail.com
Our Favorite Lombardia Food Experiences in Spring
Cascina Lago Scuro – About an hour from Milan, toward Cremona, Cascina Lago Scuro is a hidden gem. This working farm is known for outstanding cheeses and thoughtful collaborations with chefs and artists.
Sagra della Lomellina – May 23–25 — In province of Pavia (also 1hr drive from Milan), this local food festival is a celebration of Lombardia’s culinary traditions. Expect risotti galore, along with regional specialties like Bertagnina di Dorno squash, Cilavegna asparagus, Breme red onions, and yes—even frogs, a unique (and historic!) part of Lombard cuisine.
Festival delle Ciliegie — June 7-8 — This cherry-themed festival features tastings, jams and family-friendly activities in the Lodi countryside.